All photos: Nathan Davison

Review: Soul Daddy’s Sauces Prove Addictive, Sides Not So Much

 

All photos: Nathan Davison

Deeming a restaurant’s fare “healthy soul food” just seems laughable. That’s like baking discs of flax seed and ruffage and calling them cookies. Or listening to Rick Astley’s music when you’re not being rickrolled. Yet somehow, Jamawn Woods — winner of NBC’s America’s Next Great Restaurant — makes it work. For the most part, anyway. Jamawn’s concept, Soul Daddy, bills itself as featuring “new home cooking,” offering lighter takes on traditional straight-from-the-kitchen dishes. Fried chicken smothered in maple syrup over a plate-sized Belgian waffle is replaced by an herb-roasted, baked bird and a cornbread waffle about the size of your palm. Diced sweet potatoes in a cilantro vinaigrette stand in for crispy French fries, and cream-of-mushroom-soup-coated green bean casserole is swapped for a crunchy, cold green bean salad.

 

Baked chicken, sweet potato salad, braised kale and a cornbread muffin -- Kinda, sorta like Momma used to make. Except not really.

It’s more like classic Sunday picnic food that doesn’t leave you feeling like you swallowed a gallon o’ gloppy grease. Delicious, yes, but with only two warm side options (cheese grits and braised kale), it doesn’t provide the craving-quenching, one-bite-and-I’m-home flavor typically associated with soul food. Where’s the healthy mac and cheese? Or some red beans and rice? Maybe I’m just being too picky; I’ve never been big on cold bean salads, and Soul Daddy has plenty.

 

Tangy pulled pork and smooth cheese grits overshadow chewy, braised kale and a crumbly cornbread waffle

What really takes this food to the next level is the sauces. The tangy, bold flavor of the mustard sauce — especially when drizzled on Jamawn’s alternative to collard greens, braised kale — and the sweet, slightly peppery taste of the BBQ sauce improve everything they touch (yes, even the cold veggie salads!). The latter is delightfully remniscent of the Buff-a-Que sauce at Shane’s Rib Shack (RIP, Tampa branch!). Of course, some nutritional value is lost when every bite is liberally doused with the mouth-kicking meal enhancers, but it’s worth it. You may just be tempted to drink the leftover sauce. You’ll probably get sick, but for those first few seconds, it’ll be gloriously savory.

 

The best part: SD's sauce station. I could cart it home.

The only serious disappointment? There’s nothing sweet! Soul Daddy needs a healthy, two-bite take on soul-satisfying desserts, like gooey berry cobblers transformed into fresh crumbles, and mini red velvet cupcakes or palm-sized, lower-calorie pecan pies. Now that would be perfection. And it’d probably defeat the ‘healthy’ purpose. Sorry, Jamawn. Sorry, investors. I just like pie, okay?

 

Anybody see the Chipotle influence? Anybody?

Have you tried Soul Daddy? If so, what did you think?

Cinco De Yummo 6

Hello, Summer! Watermelon Margaritas

Photo: Nathan Davison

 

Growing up in Florida, the concept of changing seasons was completely foreign to me. Having different wardrobes — and even wearing different fabrics and colors — during the winter months? Unheard of. Trekking around town in boots six months out of the year? Only if you worked in construction, pal. And shivering in May? You must be joking.

Then I moved to New York, and suddenly the year wasn’t split into “warm and breezy” and “pretty freaking hot.”

At first, I relished in it. Scarves, mittens, overcoats — it all seemed so fun. But when racks of bikinis started hitting store shelves in March and I was trudging through snow, I’ll be honest: the novelty wore off. Quickly.

While it isn’t quite bathing suit season in the city, I’m trying to usher in the season (and encourage a tropical escape, even if only in my mind) with some refreshing watermelon margaritas. They take just minutes to make, and the salted, chili powder rim provides a tangy kick that keeps the drink from being mouth-puckeringly sweet.

Photo: Nathan Davison

 

Plus, if you’re searching for a stress-free party or Cinco de Mayo menu, this cocktail provides a crisp contrast to my Avocado Chicken Tostadas. Just throwin’ it out there.

NOTE: If you’re under 21, skip the tequila and Triple Sec. I know I’m no fun, but guess what? The alcohol-free version is pretty darn good on its own. I promise.

Photo: Nathan Davison

 

Watermelon Margaritas

Nathan very slightly adapted this from Brian Boitano’s recipe for Food Network

Kitchen utensils needed: Cutting board, knife, blender, shallow bowl (for creating salt/chili powder rim)

Ingredients (serves 5-6):

  • 4 cups cubed watermelon
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 limes: juice 1 and 1/2 for the margaritas, and save the other half to cut into wedges for garnish
  • 1 cup of ice
  • 5 ounces Triple Sec (set one ounce aside for creating the salted rim)
  • 8 ounces tequila
  • 4 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon chili powder

Time Commitment: 15-20 minutes

Steps:

  1. Puree the watermelon, sugar, ice and Triple Sec in a blender. (We had to add the Triple Sec just so our puny blender could properly mix everything.)
  2. Once it’s reached a smoothie-like consistency, pour it into a pitcher and stir in the lime juice and tequila.
  3. Mix the salt and chili powder on one shallow bowl. In the other, empty dish, pour the ounce of Triple Sec. Dip the rims of each glass in the Triple Sec, then dip them into the salt/chili powder mix. You may have to twist the cup a bit to get it thoroughly coated.
  4. Now for the obvious: Fill each glass with watermelon margarita and garnish with a lime wedge. Revel in how amazingly pulled together your friends think you are. Now go to the beach, or at least sit back, stare at a tropical screensaver, and pretend you’re there. (Because the latter is totally not lame, right? Right?)
Screen shot 2011-05-04 at 2.14.46 PM

Your Last-Minute Cinco de Mayo Menu

Photo: Nathan Davison

 

Cinco de Mayo has all the elements of the quintessential college party: it falls just after exams, it gets people together and it pairs great food with an excuse to drink.

With those factors at play, it’s no wonder that across America, Cinco de Mayo is often as widely associated with campus life as it is the day that Mexican soldiers conquered the French in the Battle of Puebla (which would make my tenth-grade history teacher cringe; sorry, Mr. F!). To many, it’s become the I’m-in-College-and-Looking-for-a-Reason-to-Party Holiday, right up there with Labor Day (Diddy’s not the only one rocking white-attire-only parties), St. Patrick’s Day and, arguably, Halloween.

Whatever your reason for celebrating, these avocado chicken tostadas will provide a satisfying crunch and robust flavor for hardly any effort — or cash. Now you have no excuse not to throw a fiesta.

Photo: Nathan Davison

 

Check back later tonight for the perfect complement to this meal: Watermelon Margaritas! (Watermeloritas?)

PS — If you’re looking for more recipes, why don’t you try these southwestern seafood enchiladas, black beans with cilantro lime rice, Mexican Seven-Layer Dip, baked apple empanadas or fruit salsa with cinnamon chips. Your stomach will thank you.

 

Kitchen gadgets needed: cutting board, knife, frying pan, small bowl, fork, spatula, tablespoon, stovetop

Ingredients (serves 4-5):

  • 1 jar of your favorite salsa (I chose Newman’s Own Tequila Lime Salsa)
  • 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
  • 1 package of small corn tortillas (about 8 is fine)
  • 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
  • 1 can black beans
  • 1 can corn
  • Couple leaves of shredded lettuce (tip: grab from the salad bar in the cafeteria!)
  • 1 avocado, cubed
  • ½ cup queso fresco or Mexican shredded cheese
  • A sprinkle of chili powder to top the dish (optional)
  • 1 lime to add extra tanginess to the dish (optional)

Cost: $13.39, or $2.68-$3.39 per person (or $1.18-$1.46 per person if you snag the corn, black beans, avocado slices, cheese and lettuce from your dining hall’s salad bar!)

Time Commitment: 40 minutes

Steps:

  1. Chop the chicken into bite-sized pieces, place it in a small bowl and cover with salsa. Let the salsa marinate the chicken while you begin cubing the avocado and shredding the lettuce into bite-sized pieces. The longer the chicken can marinate, the better — it lets all of the flavor seep in.
  2. Once that’s done, open the can of black beans and drain out all the excess juices. Pour the beans into a small bowl and, using a fork, smash them into a paste. The texture should be close to refried beans (only healthier!).
  3. As the chicken bakes, line a plate with paper towels and set it next to the stove. Then, add the oil to a frying pan, setting it to medium-high. Once it starts bubbling a bit, place a corn tortilla on the oil, frying both sides until they’re lightly golden and slightly bubbly. Set them on the paper towels to dry.
  4. While the tortillas dry, dial back the stove top to medium heat, pour the chicken and salsa into the frying pan, and let it cook until the chicken is white all the way through.
  5. When the chicken’s almost ready, warm the black beans and corn in the microwave for about 40 seconds.
  6. Spread a light layer of black beans onto each tostada, then layer on the corn, chicken, lettuce, avocado, cheese and extra salsa. Top with a light sprinkling of chili powder and lime juice to complete the dish.

So, can Gwyneth Paltrow cook?

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Nate meets the Food Network star (Bidens not included)

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